567 Carnegie Ave, Peterborough, Ontario, K9L 1N1

705-745-4404

Many Buildings That Are Local Landmarks

This municipality (Peterborough) has just recently passed its hundredth anniversary of the first settlement. And of that coming in and settlement we have a few vestiges left. The city of to-day is too young to have in its environs what are referred to as ancestral halls and must of historic edifices. Largely from the fact, which is true of all Canadian localities that have grown from inception or planting in the virgin forest, that the habitations of its people were first of a class growing out of the necessities of the times, then of a gradual betterment and lastly of a recognition of the claims of appearance and the essentials of comfort.

Those who were early on the ground had little of time or indeed inclination to consider appearances. What they needed was a shelter and materials at hand were utilized. The primitive dwelling was the house of logs, stout, warm, durable and inexpensive. Meeting as required the extremes of heat and cold as incidental to the climate of Canada. But so soon as lumber became fairly plentiful, the log house ceased to be constructed, within the civic limits, at any rate. Then followed that most durable of all, stone. To be supplemented with brick, though the clapboard was a favorite for many years. And the "strip" houses, further on described, was made use of and stood in favor.

What is here written is something of a running relation of the housing problem of the early and later years; who built, who occupied, what is left to recognize, together with some person-al relations of the people who occupied and were of the citizens of the years as noted. All have gone to their rest as the span of life covers not the multitude of years that have passed.

In erecting the first not log wooden houses, the builders with the English idea of permanency carried into the construction the "frame" idea. This formed a skeleton, a very substantial one in fact of hewn and sawn timbers mortised and braced, the outside covered with sheeting and clap-boards, the inside with lath and plaster. Many such houses are built to-day in use and highly respected. They seem to defy the winds and elements, and nothing but fire can them lay low. A modification of the build was the "rough cast", the outer walls covered with plaster. The fore-runner of the now esteemed stucco. The outside was first covered with a split lath, viz. a thin board split with an ax and nailed on the frame, the split boards being separated as nailed, forming interstices in which the mortar took hold. The finishing coat was a thick mixture of thin mortar and small pebbles, thrown or "cast" against the wall. When lumber was real plentiful, and as the narrow boards turned out from the mills were not esteemed for export, the narrowest, about six inches in width, were made use of. These placed on the foundation timbers were securely nailed, one on top of another, the edges of alternate boards projecting so as to form a groove into which the mortar was pressed. The whole formed a very substantial style of building. A fairly large number are in service as yet after an interval of sixty years.

Among those who came into the district following the earliest settlements were a number of English military men, officers retired on half-pay. Several located within the town limits, and built homes of stone, and several fine examples of this form of house are now in use as yet. In general, these houses are low, roomy, well lighted and had ample verandahs. The reasons assigned for not building houses of some height was concerned with the heating. This was by means of wide and deep fire-places, of generous width; in which four foot sticks of maple hardwood were piled and made a glorious fire. Stoves, as we afterwards knew them, had come into use.

It may be of interest to place on record some facts with regard to the oldest buildings in the city, before those who are still living and know of the incidents have passed away. Of all the original buildings erected on George Street, between Murray Street and the corner of Charlotte Street, only one remains, the brick building, the south half of which is now occupied by Edward’s Meat Market, and the north half by the barber shop of Gainey Bros. This building is not so ancient as many others in the city, but is the dean of the street, so to speak. It was built by Robert Rowe, and shows the thorough way in which he, as a con-tractor, did his work. After its erection, it was occupied for several years by James Best, as a general store, and by William Haffey in clothing and tailoring. In the upper storey, reached by a staircase outside the building, was the office of the Weekly Review newspaper, at the time of its establishment in 1853. In a few rooms at the rear, several legal lights had offices. Truly, a Hall of Learning. The date of erection is given as in 1847.

Another old timer, still doing service is that known for many years as the Commercial Hotel, corner of George and Brock streets. This building is one of the frame style, and was put up by Henry Lawson, for use as a fanning mill factory, the frame being sheeted with boards. At that time, it stood about nine feet above the now street level, perched on the bank, for the street had been cut through the hill. In fact, all the buildings on that side of the street, from the corner of Brock Street down to what was known as the "Crystal Block" - though the name has been dropped - were hoisted up high and dry. Behind these buildings was a deep hole, (some of it is there as yet), known as "Henthorn’s Yard," where the drainings of the street collected, and made things bad for the sanitary influences of the vicinity. When the making of fanning mills became almost a lost art, the building stood idle for many years. Afterwards it was shored up, the ground beneath taken away and a foundation built in, as we see it to-day.

First Home of Otonabee Lodge

Of old stone buildings, one with a history, is that so long the residence of the late Robert Nicholls, and now of W.H. Hamilton, in the block adjoining that on which St. Peter’s Cathedral now stands. In 1845, P.M. Grover began its erection, proposing to make it his residence. He had the walls up and something done to the roof, when he failed in business, and the unfinished building passed out of his hands. At that time, Otonabee Lodge No. 13, of the Oddfellows, was a flourishing and popular institution, quite as much in the public eye as either Rotary or Kiwanis, and having some such identity in social service work. Its membership held all the professional men of the town and prominent business men, as well, and the Lodge was ambitious to attempt things. It needed a hall, and after some negotiations the Grover building was bought. The walls were raised, the roof completed, the large pillars that lend distinction to the front erected. Some years after, the affairs of the Lodge became involved and it became dormant. With its spacious grounds and admirable site the building has been a notable landmark.

Another old building of stone that is still unmarked by the hand of Time, is that known for so many years as the Phelan Hotel, on Simcoe Street. It was built as a notable piece of enterprise by Richard Winch, Sen., father of our venerable citizen, Richard Winch, of Stewart Street; William Yates was the contractor. As these lines are written, the old and the original contract for erection is before us. In the precise language used by Elias Burnham, Peterborough’s first lawyer and solicitor, the terms of erection are specified. Under date of June 23, 1849. So many cords of stone were required at fourteen shillings the cord, and the lime at six-pence the bushel. There were no profiteers in building materials in those days. An item is also specified as seven stone thresholds.

This building was when erected, (the eastern half), the home of the old Commercial Bank, first in the district. J.H. Roper, as a very young man was manager. In the western half, Mr. Winch had his meats market and did a thriving trade.

This old building was the centre of attraction on a certain 17^th of March, 1863. Growing out of some expressed intention of one of the Catholic societies of the town to march out. This proposed action was resented by the belligerent society known as the "Cavan Blazers" of which we may write further on. There was a lot of marching and counter-marching and much of painless demonstrations, culminating by the Blazers bringing in an old cannon mounted on a venerable bob-sleigh and planting it opposite the door of the hotel threatening to blow the insides out of the place, as one briefly declared intention. On the ground that several choice spirits of the opposing faction were inside. But the matter blew over, and that same evening both sides sat down to a luxurious supper at the Caisse House and speeches were made eulogistic of St George and the Dragon and Ould Ireland and Saint Patrick.

The bank was afterward moved to the brick building at the corner of Water and Hunter streets built by John Gilmour,... W.A. Harper being at that time the manager. The building was the "Crown’ or Sun Life Building.

On George Street, opposite Comstock’s stands an old stone and plaster building build by William McBurney and in which he had for several years his saddlery shop. It is now known as the Grand Hotel. For years a dispute existed as to whether this building did or did not stand on a foot in width of the ground to the south, and over this foot of ground, one of the bitterest law suits that ever vexed the community was waged, until the value of the building and lot was eaten up in costs.

For buildings with a fine flavour of antiquity about them or a respectfully long pedigree it is of no use to look north of McDonnel Street. The reason assigned for this is that in the early years the only means of crossing the river was a ford, and afterwards the bridge at Hunter Street. The first bridge at Nassau was not built until after Charles Perry had built the first Red Mill, at that point on the river. So north of McDonnel Street was not in much favor and houses were group-ed together lower down. It is true that there were exceptions to this rule, as in the case of the large stone residence so long occupied by John Belcher, civil engineer, on the top of "Smithtown Hill." This house was erected by Henry Cowing in 1845-44, and afterwards became the property of the late Mossom Boyd. Mr. Cowing owned the quarry, opposite the entrance to Jackson Park, and from this quarry was taken the stone to erect the county buildings, old St Andrew’s Church, St Peter’s Cathedral, and many of the stone dwellings in the town.

Rev J.M. Roger built in 1840 the house in which he lived for many years, afterward the home of his son, [the] late Judge G.M. Roger, of Cobourg. The stone for the house was quarried from his own lot, just north of Bonaccord St. The house was purchased by the late G. Walter Greene, and afterwards sold, to become the home of Dr N.H. Sutton, of this city.

The stone for the erection of St John’s church was taken from the glebe lot, north of McDonnel Street and west of the creek. In the main quarry the quality of the stone deteriorated as the quarry was worked into, and the arrival of brick, its convenience and popularity put an end to the use of stone as a building material. Among the older and most substantial stone buildings as yet in use is the fine house just outside the city - end of Charlotte Street - and the residence for many years of late R.A. Morrow. It was built by Stafford Kirkpatrick, in 1842, and about the same time were built several others of the same pattern. One of these was erected by Capt. Charles Rubidge, a very early settler. It stood in a large block of lands, south of Weller Street and west of Park street, at the time the western boundary of Peter-borough. This house was plastered on the outside, over the stone. It became the property of late Judge Weller and afterwards the residence of the late Senator Geo. A. Cox, before his removal to Toronto. In his care the building was much enlarged and improved. The cutting up of the land into building lots has resulted in the demolition of the old house.

Other stone houses yet in use were erected about the time indicated. Dr Ridley built the house at the corner of Hunter and Rubidge Streets, a comfortable old place, occupied for some years by Hazen Ritchie. William Eastland in 1849 built the stone house at corner of Hunter and Stewart Streets. This is now the city residence of successive managers of the Bank of Montreal, its hospitable doors ever ready to welcome the new manager to the city. The Haggert house at corner of Brock and Chambers is another substantial house of stone.

Of stone buildings used for manufactures, several remain, and all have chequered histories. The old, low building perched on the side of the bluff overlooking the rails of the Midland branch of the G.T.R. and the creek and crossing on Bethune Street, has had a varied existence. It was built in 1837-38 for a distillery by Edmund Chamberlain in 1832: afterwards altered to the uses of a brewery; put to this use for many years and passed into the hands of Ogilvie & Hood, who used it as a soap factory until the making of soap received a chill. For many years it was known as the "Ship Brewery," from the figure of a ship that did duty as a weathercock on top of a staff projecting through the roof. Then to the recent use of a shelter for many years to the old people in the care of the Protestant Home in their declining years. Now it has been turned into apartments. Such is the durability of stone in construction.

Within a stone’s throw of the old Home is a stone building that has been a notable landmark for over eighty years. The structure now occupied by Fitzgerald’s coal and wood business. It was put up by a man named Smith, as a venture in the line of distilleries, and to head off the competition from Cobourg at that time (1834-36) the centre of the production of whiskey. When finished, a man named Pat Hamon came in from Cavan and made whiskey galore. He took a pride in his profession, did Hamon, and he was not bothered with such trifles as excise, of taxes or other impediments. He had a find commercial instinct, and sent out a handbill to extol his wares, saying that he had the best home-distilled, one price to all, four pence the quart and one shilling the gallon. And adding the bibulous information that it held not a headache in a quart. Gentlemen who now inveigle the physician for a four ounce shot at two dollars for the potion, may regret that they did not live in the good old days. In after years, William Lundy took over the place and made good leathers where the alleged good whiskey had spent its aroma on the neighbourhood.

Tucked in behind the buildings on Simcoe Street, adjoining the creek crossing, and next to the Lock Works, is an old stone place with a tragic finale to its long activities. Used as a tannery, the owner, crazed with liquor, met his wife in the doorway, on a day in October, 1875, and killed her with an axe. The crime was a matter of public concern and the circumstances so deplorable that following the trial and conviction it required very strenuous efforts of many of the community to secure a mitigation of the sentence from hanging to imprisonment for life. It is understood that after serving ten years, he was released on condition that he leave the country.

The first brick available in this neighbourhood was made by hand out of a clay bed in North Monaghan. Dr William Bell, who had a penchant for giving everything a lift where he could, fathered the idea and gained fair results. The first brick house to be erected, was built by Thomas Leonard, at the corner of Simcoe and Queen streets in 1847, using the home-made brick. This house took the eye of Robert Nicholls, and he rented it from Thomas Leonard, and occupied the house until he took over the Grover-Oddfellows house, as previously mentioned in this relation. The old Globe Hotel, still is use as a dwelling, on Charlotte Street (opposite the entrance to Louis Street), was of the first, and built by Thomas Harper. The arch over the high double doorway was at the time considered quite a well-finished work. The house of Marcello Mowry, still inhabited and now in the environs of Riverside Park, was built in 1849. As Mowry came from Cobourg, and had large faith in the excellence of things made at that town, he had the brick for the house drawn in during the winter from Cobourg. This house and several others among the early ones were build by a brick-layer named Old John Thorn, a Cavan man, and a Blazer as well. His specialty was the Flemish bond way of laying bricks, the courses being alternatively crossed, making a very durable wall, and without the air space as we have it to-day. For purposes of record it may be stated that the first brick building on George Street was one erected by William Snyder, and stood, as near as may be located, on the ground covered by the Peterborough Hardware Co. building. Mr. Snyder engaged in business as a general store. His advertisement appears in the local paper as early as 1845. Alex Donnolly afterwards kept store in the same building, and named his store "The Long Arm Chop," from a particular and much esteemed brand of tea. The town hall, also of brick, was erected on the Market Square, in 1851.

Large claim is made by many builders that, save for the outside appearance, the house constructed of wood is as serviceable and durable as brick. In support, there are many examples. The house standing on the Nicholls Oval, on the bluff facing the river, long known to children as the "Ghost House," was built by Capt. Bray, a retired naval officer, who had fought under Nelson at Aboukie Bay and Trafalgar and who located here and built the house of wood, in 1833. After his death, it was used by Mossom Boyd before he took over the stone house on Smithtown Hill. The old rough-cast house on Aylmer Street, north of the Creamery, dates back to 1836, and survived the wear and tear of hotel life for thirty years or longer. The now fine appearing dwelling at the corner of Aylmer and Dalhousie Streets has eighty-eight years of service to its credit. It was built by Col. Madge, an English officer, in 1834. He had previously settled in the township of Harvey, but came out of the forest after a few years experience and stayed on the town site. The house for several, indeed many years, was the home of J.R. Ormond. Then of J.R. Stratton. Afterwards of H.P. Kennedy. It is true that the building has had much of alteration and improvement but the timber frame inside will endure for another fifty years.

A wooden house, comely in its old age and full of quiet service is that built by James Lince, corner of Aylmer and London Streets in the year 1835. He was a veteran of Waterloo, came to Canada that year and settled. The cottage has been turned around on the lot and is good for another half-century of service. The English house, on Charlotte Street, now 173, next to the creek, is all that is left of the original buildings on that side of the street for blocks to the west. Built by Thomas Leonard in 1835, the house has sheltered families for eighty years and still giving service. Of wood and rough cast variety. The low cottage adjoining the creek, (west side), on Hunter Street, was built by Samuel Albro, uncle of Sheriff Hall, before 1840. It was for many years the home of Dr McNabb, and afterwards that of Walter Patterson. On Brock Street across the lane from Dr Eastwood’s (north side of the street) is the only dwelling left of the pioneer houses. Its age is not known, but has been there for over eighty years. It was the home of Col Crawford, and for a time Dr Crawford, the father of the noted Canadian poetess, Isabella Valancy Crawford, lived there too, the men folk being distantly related. As a girl, the authoress lived in the house until the family moved on to Water Street, and lived in a house overlooking the river, one section of the row of brick buildings that line the east side of the street.

Many old houses, landmarks at one time, and of some historical interest owing to the personal characteristics of the owners, have passed away within the last forty years. Four typical houses, or dwellings, stood on the high bank of the river, opposite the now power house of the Hydraulic Co. The houses were of the cottage style, wide verandahs, French windows, opening down to the floors, big fireplaces, the whole arrangement admirably unsuited to the rigors of a Canadian winter. Each had been painted in a different color. The white house was built by Col. Brown, an officer of the Kentish Fusiliers who located here in 1832. Typical retired military man. He turned out and raised a company that armed themselves with muskets, rifles and shot-guns and footed it to Toronto to assist in putting down the rebellion of 1837-38. The yellow house was built by Major Sharpe, or as he was familiarly known, as Sam Sharpe. He was of sporting proclivities and he imbibed much of the current beverages, to his detriment. It was jocularly said that Bill Sharpe always carried in his pocket a piece of dried codfish, very salty and a thirst provoker.

Mention might be made of the building of the fine old stone house, so long the home of the late Peter Connal. The house was actually built as a community effort for the purpose of retaining among the people the services of Dr John Hutchison, a pioneer physician and well beloved for his unwearing kindness and helpfulness. The story of the effort made and the erection of this house has already been told in these columns.

Lest this writing run to excessive length many other houses must be left unmentioned. Numbers have attached something of historic interest, growing out of the personality of those who occupied and their connection with the affairs of the municipality. The home of Richard Hall (Water Street, north) had been occupied some years before the incorporation of the town, having been the property of the first Mayor of the town, Thomas Benson. It is indeed fitting that this fine residence of the early days of the town should be in the hands of the dean of the Merchant fraternity of the city, for it is an even guess that Mr. Hall had outlived all who were his contemporaries and carried on under his personal participation the business, taking up as a youth the interests of Nicholls & Hall, when other activities claimed the firm’s attention. Mr. Hall has been identified with the business since 1858, when he entered as a lad of fifteen years of age.

This article appeared in Heritage Gazette of the Trent Valley, vol 5, 2 (August 2000)